2016 International 466 Dt Manual
Instructions on what to do are on the back of the sun visor and more detail should be in your owners manual. What kind of smoke are you.
Tces in Austin, Texas said: I have a 2007 4300 truck with the dt 466 engine, the truck starts every time when the engine is cold, but when the engine warm up the truck just turn over but won't start. When the truck is running the engine runs good whith plenty of power, but as soon I turn it off it won't start untill the engine cools off. I did notice the oil pressure drops to twenty five-thirty psi at idle when hot and about forty five-fifty at 2500 rpms. Thanks for any help. Your engine oil pressure is good!
No check engine light on?( Yellow) You will need to check huie/ injection pressure When it's hot, if that's low u will need to test the huie Oil pressure at the pump, this proscess will tell u either the huie pump Is no good or u possibley have a leaky injector o ring. Tces in Austin, Texas said: Thanks for the heads up Tony. The only light that's on, is the check AC but no other, what sould the reading be for oil pressure at the pump whith the oil hot and what sould be the injector pressure when hot. Also where can I check for injector pressure.
Thanks again. Oil pressure will vary normally at idle 20 to 45 psi Minimal is no lower then 10 psi at idle, Injection control pressure when cranking needs to be above 700 psi For it to start, to check injection pressure u will need a lap top with Software if u have a high pressure head gauge u can Attach it to the out pressure line from the huie pump. Just got my 2007 4300 with DT466 motor a couple months ago, noticed then it had a pretty fast idle, but it cranked and ran ok, but yellow engine light would go on and off. But just last week weather temps dropped and I took it on a to Florida, and stopped at a truck stop on the way, and it would not crank after it had been running for several hundred miles.
Finally, after some starting fluid, it cranked for few seconds. Waited couple hours and it started and idled with a very rough idle, which shook the whole truck. It idled this way for most of the trip back, but cruised good several hundred miles. Got back home, it would not start until it got more starting fluid, and then it idled normally. Took it to diesel shop, and no codes were active, just had a bunch of stored codes. Just reading this forum, where is best place to start troubleshooting?
FUEL RETURN CHECK VALVE? INJECTOR CONTROL PRESSURE SENSOR? FUEL FILTER PRESSURE REGULATOR? OIL RAIL O-RINGS OR SEALS?
FUEL INJECTOR SEALS OR O-RINGS? INTAKE HEATER GRID? SENSORS FOR OIL, AIR, TEMP?
ETOWAH EXPRESS in Gadsden, Alabama said: just got my 2007 4300 with DT466 motor a couple months ago, noticed then it had a pretty fast idle, but it cranked and ran ok, but yellow engine light would go on and off. But just last week weather temps dropped and I took it on a to Florida, and stopped at a truck stop on the way, and it would not crank after it had been running for several hundred miles. Finally, after some starting fluid, it cranked for few seconds.
Waited couple hours and it started and idled with a very rough idle, which shook the whole truck. It idled this way for most of the trip back, but cruised good several hundred miles. Got back home, it would not start until it got more starting fluid, and then it idled normally. Took it to diesel shop, and no codes were active, just had a bunch of stored codes. Just reading this forum, where is best place to start troubleshooting?
FUEL RETURN CHECK VALVE? INJECTOR CONTROL PRESSURE SENSOR? FUEL FILTER PRESSURE REGULATOR? OIL RAIL O-RINGS OR SEALS?
FUEL INJECTOR SEALS OR O-RINGS? INTAKE HEATER GRID? SENSORS FOR OIL, AIR, TEMP?
International 466 Dt Manual
Try all connectors on sensors. Don't forget a fuse top of the battery. Its happened 2x. Is to warm and broke a electric connection.sometime is a connector pig tale issue. The problem is back.
The mechanic replaced the throttle pedal which seemed to fix the problem. But every now and then the problem returns. Yesterday it happened again only this time the engine was warm and took about a hour of be stuck on the side of the road before starting to work good again.
Problem starts off like it's not running on all cylinders then yellow engine light comes on and I loose throttle pedal but engine run perfectly now. Then light goes out and problem returns.
Usually by the time the engine warms up good it goes away, but not yesterday. I have an 2005 IH 4300 DT466. Inframe at 151k miles,now with 296k)3 new injectors in a year ago. (previous 3 were changed in the 15months prior to that)New aluminum tank cuz rust issues. New turbo a year ago. Ok 2 weeks ago.I had got fuel in morning,the truck ran normal.
The following morning I let it warm up like normal,went to drive it onto the Interstate on-ramp which is at a little bit of an incline. At around 1500 to 1700RPM the truck would go into like a dead spot for about 2seconds then power thru it and run.
Then run good the rest of the morning. In the afternoon, id start truck on my route and same thing. Id go to pull away from the post office and within a few mins of pulling away itd do the same dead spot at 15to 1700 rpms. But then run good the rest of my route. My initial thought was that I had got some bad fuel. This was on a tuesday.
I changed the filter wednesday. I spoke with my friend who was an IH mechanic. He told me he thought it sounded like water in fuel. He said sometimes when you get water in fuel like that you just have to run the truck really hard get the RPMS up and blow the water out of the injectors. Like manually shift it(its a standard)and really REV it up. He did my route for me and he said he did that.
2016 International 466 Dt Manual De Motores
It was a Sunday. The following Monday I ran my route. Truck ran great.
Ran all week great until a week ago this past Saturday. As I was finishing up my route the truck ran really sluggish on take off from a stop light at the 15to1700RPM. I called my friend he said sounded like the fuel filter had got plugged again. So we changed it. The following morning, Sunday (a week ago) I ran my route. Figuring that changing the filter fixed the prob.
I went to get on the interstate on ramp. Same dead idle. Continued Post 2 Same dead idle as I went up the little incline at 15-1700rpm.
I got on interstate and I drove it hard. Once on interstate it ran like normal. I came up to the next stop sign. Upon take off it takes off fine but it did the same dead spot at 15-17rpms. Itd go good after you got beyond those particular rpms. Id drive it to the next stop sign.
I thought man this thing is really clogged or something. I called my buddy he said to manually shift it. Which I did and I did my route.
I told him I thought maybe the fuel tank needed to be drained. I was low on fuel I asked him if I should top it off maybe it would dilute the water (I thought) was in the tank. He said try it. I did and ran my truck afterwards.
It still had to be manually shifted to overcome the dead spot at each stop sign. Now I drove it for about 30miles. It felt like it running better. I came to a 4way. It powered up fine.
I stopped at truck stop purposely to see if it would do it again wheni got back in the truck. It ran normal.
I finished up my route and the truck never had a problem rest of trip. My friend told me the following day (Monday) to manually shift my whole route that morning and get the RPMS up and by my afternoon run the truck should be running good. Manually shifted the entire way. My afternoon trip the truck was doing the same thing at 15-17rpms. It did it at every stop sign/stop light so I just manually shifted rest of way in. Now once you got rolling, it would run good. It's just when you got it down in RPMS it would go dead at 15/17rpms.
It ran good the afternoon run but I noticed once I got on interstate where it normally would run perfect at high RPMs it seemed like it was a little more burdened as I was. I took the truck to the interstate. I told them what it was doing. They too thought the truck had water in the fuel. Thought the tank needed to be drained.
So after a few days (they were covered up in broke downs). Continued Post 3 they called me and said it was ready. Said that they drained it, and checked it. The guy said that he did NOT see hardly any water at all.
He said it had just a little bit of trash in it. He took off the screen on the little rock screen beside where the fuel filter normally is and it had just a little bit of trash in it. Nothing special. He said that they checked the fuel pressure and it was off.
He said that the pickup pump or whatever was bad (the one on the block of motor) was bad that it should have been around I think 60psi it was fluctuating at around 20-40psi So they changed it. $1064 They told me it was fixed, and it was test driven. ( i dont think it was) Well I went to get in it. Thing idled and sounded GREAT! Sounded quieter than ive ever heard this truck running. I went to get on the road to drive it to home and it did the SAME thing at 15/17rpms It just goes into an idle like state the rpms will just stay at 15/17 maybe climb a little but still its as if its dead no response from pressing the throttle at all.
Then itll catch and just power thru and take off. Now I drove it back and one of the mechanics and me drove it. He drove and we took off. Now when he drove it. He took off like a dragster racer.
He'd press the throttle and itd go like a dang rocket! I looked over and saw that the rpms would go to about 2500rpm every time he'd gas it. Now he had no problems. I told him he drove it a little harder than I did.
So he did the slower takeoffs like me and he found the same thing at 15/17 He's like yeah, there is a dead spot there. Well, we drove it about 7miles or so. We got on long straight and it had plenty of power once on long drives. And if you could just gas it soo hard that it didn't hesitate at 15/17 We got back, he says I don't know man. That's strange. He's like it doesn't show a code or anything. Ok so I leave it there.
He says he'll get his guy to look it over. Continued Post 4 Well I spoke with them the next day, this is like Thursday. I spoke with my mechanic (former employee of this dealer). He spoke with their guy, a friend of his, and he said that they brainstormed and said that the fuel pressure was STILL fluctuating and they both thought that it was the fuel regulator located on the back of the motor. That it almost just had to be that because they couldn't think of anything else. My friend said that he would put it on for me so go get my truck otherwise International would charge me about $600 more in to put it on.
So I went and got my truck, My friends friend had a few of these regulators, they are very small look like a socket head in every aspect. They just screw on the fuel line. I got my truck Friday night.
1999 June 2010. 1999 ford ranger abs module location. Haynes repair manual ford ranger 2018.
Sounded great. More queiter than ever.
I went to park it until my friend could get to it to change it Sunday (today). As I left the dealer, the thing had no power on take off again at 15/17 rpm. I even manually shifted it and this time, manually shifting it had no effect on it powering thru the 15/17rpm barrier. I just kept gassing it, giving it throttle even though it just kept creeping. The rpms got up to about 2000 and then it took off like a rocket. It would drive like this until id come to a stop but id keep the RPMS up and itd power thru it.
I got on the interstate and it felt great. Drove probably the best that ive ever had the truck. I parked it until today. My friend gets the truck to put the fuel regulator on it. I spoke with him earlier. He was test it.
He said it was doing the same thing as always at 15/17rpm. He said no power at those rpms then itd catch.
It'd do this at every stop. He was frustrated too. He said he just couldn't imagine what it was. I asked him if it was possibly the cam sensor. Because that thing does some very crazy things when they go out. Contiued Post 5 And as everyone knows, they are notorious for going out.
Although, they usually will kick out white smoke when they do. I asked him if he thought perhaps it was an injector going out or getting weak?? He's like I don't know. They should have saw it on the if it was bad if they ran the test.
Which, I don't know if they did or not because they knew that I had had my injectors changed. So, I don't know. We are currently at wits end. I can't afford to keep putting parts on this truck because I'm actually wanting to get rid of this truck and get out of my route.
At least as an owner/operator. But, I'd like my truck to be running good as for it will make the truck easier to sell when I can if it's running as opposed to not.
Any ideas on what this may be? I'm just really burnt out on this truck. I wish the cummins motor had come out when I first got into the in these trucks.
I have been borrowing a truck from a coworker. One of his old standbys. It is a 1994 with the Old DT466. It has 500k miles and it runs great! All original motor. No tear down.
More power than mine. Even though its a double clutching, gear grinding old crap box without an A/C installed. Mechanically it much better motor than what these newer 'better' internationals have. =-( Any help is appreciated. I'll respond once I do figure out the prob. Hello, I also have 2003 2003 that loses power while. In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down.
It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. And it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination. Went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening. Any one of you had a situation like that? Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it. In Fords, New Jersey said: Hello, I also have 2003 2003 that loses power while.
In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down. It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. And it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination. Went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening. Any one of you had a situation like that?
Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it. You have a code when u shut your truck off your clearing the code You need to find out what code u have and go from there. Hello, I also have 2003 2003 that loses power while. In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down. It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. And it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination.
Went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening. Any one of you had a situation like that? Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it. In Fords, New Jersey said: Hello, I also have 2003 2003 that loses power while. In the morning it will start normally and later on it will start losing power, first i will hear a click in the gear sifter the transmission light will appear on the dashboard and automatically it will slow down.
It feels like it's not changing gears. All i have to do is pull over stop the truck wait a few seconds and restart it again. And it will be driving like nothing happen until it will happen again, that means a couple of minutes later and will go on and on until i reach my destination. Went to see a couple of mechanics so far no one knows whats happening.
Any one of you had a situation like that? Can you tell me what was the problem and how did you solved it.
Check your filter between the prime pump and above the scavenger filter is a housing that holds a rubber ball that will brake apart an starve the engine of fuel intermittently or all the time. I found this after spending thousands of dollars.
MikeTireman in Richmond, Virginia said: I HAVE A 99' 4700 SERIES DT 466 E (190 ) first off when i start my truck up to let it run and let idle for about 15 minutes before taken off i have no power but if i turn it off and start it back up it has plenty of power what could this be. I replaced CP sensor and this is a Brand new motor.
I also recently had this happen I will be down the road and the starter will engage and stop then later engage again it will do it randomly out the blu. Anyone have this problems before Check your filter between the prime pump and above the scavenger filter is a housing that holds a rubber ball that will brake apart an starve the engine of fuel intermittently or all the time.
I found this after spending thousands of dollars. Buythepound in Helmetta, New Jersey said: Thanks for everyone's quick response. The shop found that while I was having this issue the TPS was quickly fluctuating at 2-4% and should have been at 0%. So they felt I needed the pedal replaced.
It ran good for them the next morning. They felt the injector code might have come from the mixed signals the pedal was sending or a separate issue all together.
Just seems weird because they always occurred at the same time. Well I will give it a try this week it didn't happen all of the time just most, so time will tell. Thanks again I will update I have experienced all of the above and lost thousands of dollars while figuring it out. My Allison mechanic could not find the gremlin that plagued my truck. He ultimately had ran an analog TPS reprogrammed the digital tranny to read this sending unit. Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas said: Contiued Post 5 And as everyone knows, they are notorious for going out.
Although, they usually will kick out white smoke when they do. I asked him if he thought perhaps it was an injector going out or getting weak?? He's like I don't know. They should have saw it on the if it was bad if they ran the test. Which, I don't know if they did or not because they knew that I had had my injectors changed.
So, I don't know. We are currently at wits end. I can't afford to keep putting parts on this truck because I'm actually wanting to get rid of this truck and get out of my route. At least as an owner/operator.
But, I'd like my truck to be running good as for it will make the truck easier to sell when I can if it's running as opposed to not. Any ideas on what this may be? I'm just really burnt out on this truck. I wish the cummins motor had come out when I first got into the in these trucks. I have been borrowing a truck from a coworker.
One of his old standbys. It is a 1994 with the Old DT466. It has 500k miles and it runs great! All original motor. No tear down. More power than mine. Even though its a double clutching, gear grinding old crap box without an A/C installed.
Mechanically it much better motor than what these newer 'better' internationals have. =-( Any help is appreciated.
I'll respond once I do figure out the prob. Check your filter between the prime pump and above the scavenger filter is a housing that holds a rubber ball that will brake apart an starve the engine of fuel intermittently or all the time. I found this after spending thousands of dollars. Well guys I have an update on my truck. After sitting at the dealer for 4months and them not doing a damn thing basically. I just sold my truck as is on Craigslist.
I still owed 9300$. Sold i5 for 12500$. Value after all the stuff I've done to it was about 26000$. Day I signed the papers I asked the guy if he figured out my problem. He said he did. But I wouldn't like it.
After asking 3times. He finally told me.
He said he took it to his mechanic and after 10mins of it with on it he said they figured it out. I'm like in disbelief because th3 truck has been sitting at carco international in ft.smith and they haven't figured anything out. He tells me it was the wastegate on the new turbo I had put on it at the dealer about 8 months ago.
He said when it took off the wastegate would open and not allow pressure to build up. He said it should have been building 20 psi and it would only build 3psi. So he said he clamped some vice grips on it to make it stay shut and he said it ran better than his 2014 model!
I was really pretty angry. Because the turbo had another 2yrs of warranty left. So it wouldn't have cost me a thing! Yet for whatever reason the dealer couldn't figure it out??? I basically had to sell my truck for a huge loss.
And lost my livelihood because of it. All because of this faulty wastegate that the dealer wouldn't or couldn't figure out.
I am truly in utter disbelief at what happened. But aanyways.regarless of how much I lost I'm glad I never have to deal with one of these piece of crap trucks ever again!
Good luck to all you guys that have them. I would advise any of you to never ever take your truck to the dealer in Fort smith!
Good luck guys. You'll need it on these dang trucks. Towman in Natchitoches, Louisiana said: I have a 2005,4300 the heater will not get hot we have checked everything we can and still no heater,however when the fan switch is on low speed it will get alittle warm but when I turn the fan switch to hi speed it starts to getting cool and not warm up again until I switch back to low speed for 2-3 minutes.I need some help please Can you tell me if you fixed your problem and how?
I'm having same issue with my 2002 international 4300. Very little heat in cab.
It's veryyyyyy cold out. Brian in Patchogue, New York said: Can you tell me if you fixed your problem and how? I'm having same issue with my 2002 4300. Very little heat in cab. It's veryyyyyy cold out That can be a couple of things. Your heater core could be blocked.
You may have to either change it out. Or you can unplug the hoses and get a high pressure hose and back flush it until the gunk coming out of it is clear. Or it can be one of the vents not closing and its allowing cold air to enter from outside. Its the blend door.
Those little motors go out all the time. There are like 3 of them. That can make it seem cold.
Id check the blend door first. Then check the little motor that closes the door. I think its like 34$ if that isn't the prob then id try backflushing the heater core.
Nejoshualson in Ontario, California said: hey all, we've been dealing with 3 trucks in our fleet that are experiencing severe power losses. No codes are being set, and several things have been tried up to and including changing turbos and injectors. We are wondering if the new fuel might be causing because this problem has surfaced since it's release. Of course is not being very helpful in releasing information, and our 07 has similar problems and has been in and out of thier shop many times, each time with different parts being replaced in what seems to be a 'try it and see if that works' approach to repair. Any feedback would be aprecciated. Thanks Hey I need some help. Amy in Columbus, Ohio said: 2007 4300 DT466 Pain in my butt!
Engine light came on yesterday, went off almost immediately. Had rough idle but went away. This morning, truck starts, runs for 10 seconds and kills itself, repeatedly.
Engine light on. Warn Engine displayed on odometer. Check the interconnect cables above your batteries. They probably need to be replaced. They get fried out and start the melt harness. Happen to mine. You will get engine light on from it.
International updated the new part. More bs from international. Usually problem where 4he 40 amp fuse goes. Nelson in Ontario, California said: hey all, we've been dealing with 3 trucks in our fleet that are experiencing severe power losses. No codes are being set, and several things have been tried up to and including changing turbos and injectors. We are wondering if the new fuel might be causing because this problem has surfaced since it's release. Of course is not being very helpful in releasing information, and our 07 has similar problems and has been in and out of thier shop many times, each time with different parts being replaced in what seems to be a 'try it and see if that works' approach to repair.
Any feedback would be aprecciated. Thanks Be shure to replace the rubber grommets on your fuel lines off the filter. They get old and hard and will leak. I just picked up an Fcar HD scanner F502 to read on my 05' 4300 DT466.
I have been having trouble with cold starts and low power. Wanted to check high pressure oil pressure and fuel pressure. The information I got is confusing and I don't know which pressure I need. Here is what came up; Injector metering rail #2 pressure 3.09psi Extended Range Fuel Pressure (absolute) 6546.07psi Auxiliary Gage Pressure Reading #1 457.66psi Auxiliary Vacuum Pressure Reading 1471.50psi this was all taken at idle, if anything looks familiar please reply. Rudy of Fort smith in fort smith, Arkansas said: Well guys I have an update on my truck. After sitting at the dealer for 4months and them not doing a damn thing basically. I just sold my truck as is on Craigslist.
I still owed 9300$. Sold i5 for 12500$. Value after all the stuff I've done to it was about 26000$.
Day I signed the papers I asked the guy if he figured out my problem. He said he did. But I wouldn't like it. After asking 3times. He finally told me.
He said he took it to his mechanic and after 10mins of it with on it he said they figured it out. I'm like in disbelief because th3 truck has been sitting at carco international in ft.smith and they haven't figured anything out. He tells me it was the wastegate on the new turbo I had put on it at the dealer about 8 months ago.
He said when it took off the wastegate would open and not allow pressure to build up. He said it should have been building 20 psi and it would only build 3psi. So he said he clamped some vice grips on it to make it stay shut and he said it ran better than his 2014 model! I was really pretty angry. Because the turbo had another 2yrs of warranty left. So it wouldn't have cost me a thing!
Yet for whatever reason the dealer couldn't figure it out??? I basically had to sell my truck for a huge loss. And lost my livelihood because of it. All because of this faulty wastegate that the dealer wouldn't or couldn't figure out. I am truly in utter disbelief at what happened. But aanyways.regarless of how much I lost I'm glad I never have to deal with one of these piece of crap trucks ever again!
Good luck to all you guys that have them. I would advise any of you to never ever take your truck to the dealer in Fort smith! Good luck guys. You'll need it on these dang trucks. That's horrible. Im actually having same exact problem you did with my truck. It misses for couple seconds and I step on gas and get through it.
Just purchased a 2012 Terrastar (light duty commercial truck) from Washington State last month (Im in VA). We flew out to Washington to test drive and found no issues. Now, everytime the truck gets 'hot' we have some type of exhaust issue. Its usually around 45 minutes into a trip (not even pulling anything) the truck engine will get incredibly loud, it feels like we lose some power, and exhaust light comes on telling us the exhaust is hot. We hooked a reader up to it but it didn't come up with anything. The truck has a 6.4 Maxxforce 47 engine. I've searched high and low on the internet and cant find anything.
Jeremy in Rochester, New York said: Sounds to me like your oil rail O-rings are leaking. Try to pressurize the oil rail with shop air if you have the adapters to do so. If you are able, leave the shop air hooked up and listen closely to the valve cover, after a few minutes, after the air has displaced the oil in the rail, you will hear airflow under the valve cover. If you do hear air, then get an oil rail o-ring kit and a crankcase breather o-ring. Remove the valve cover and oil rail. Flip it over on a bench and replace the o-rings. Re-assemble and you'll be good to go.
FYI, it will crank for a bit before it starts, this is because it needs to purge the air out of the system before the oil pressure will go to work. I have a 2008 int 466 and it idles great but slow response what is the problem. Ricardo Montes in Mesa, Arizona said: I have a 2005 navystar and on the dash the 'econ' and 'ABS' light are on and I dont know how to turn it off.
Does anyone know how to get rid of it? It has already been scanned and no codes seemed to be wrong. Econ light on is a ecomony setting.switch is on side of shifter if console shifter or on end of shift lever on steering column. ABS light visually check all 4 wheel speed sensor connections at wheels some times disconnecting and reconnecting will clear ABS light. Is breaks air?
If not your teeth on rotor are rusted. You have to change rotors or deactivate abs wire or you can crash going down hill.
Abs will activate and won't be able to stop. Happened to me. I pulled abs wire off under truck by battery. I didn't want to change good rotors. So I just pulled abs wire.
You won't have abs but will save you lots of $and it's safer but light will stay on. Yes eco switch on shifter little button Ricardo Montes in Mesa, Arizona said: I have a 2005 navystar and on the dash the 'econ' and 'ABS' light are on and I dont know how to turn it off. Does anyone know how to get rid of it?
It has already been scanned and no codes seemed to be wrong. Rudy In Fort Smith in Fort Smith, Arkansas said: Contiued Post 5 And as everyone knows, they are notorious for going out. Although, they usually will kick out white smoke when they do. I asked him if he thought perhaps it was an injector going out or getting weak??
He's like I don't know. They should have saw it on the if it was bad if they ran the test. Which, I don't know if they did or not because they knew that I had had my injectors changed. So, I don't know.
We are currently at wits end. I can't afford to keep putting parts on this truck because I'm actually wanting to get rid of this truck and get out of my route. At least as an owner/operator. But, I'd like my truck to be running good as for it will make the truck easier to sell when I can if it's running as opposed to not. Any ideas on what this may be? I'm just really burnt out on this truck.
I wish the cummins motor had come out when I first got into the in these trucks. I have been borrowing a truck from a coworker. One of his old standbys. It is a 1994 with the Old DT466. It has 500k miles and it runs great! All original motor.
No tear down. More power than mine. Even though its a double clutching, gear grinding old crap box without an A/C installed. Mechanically it much better motor than what these newer 'better' internationals have. =-( Any help is appreciated.
I'll respond once I do figure out the prob. Check your IPR Valve on the back of the HPOP.
This exact thing happened to me, that was my root cause. I have a 2005 dt466 truck came in for service and we changed oil and all filters truck ran great for a 100 miles and then starting losing power and then completely shut down. Tried to crank it back up and wont build up oil pressure so we had it towed back in to our fleet and we then replaced high pressure oil pump with a brand new irp valve, and also a new turbo, after replacing with a the old high pressure oil pump with new pump the truck cranked with a extremely hard start, it ran for minute and then shut it self back off will only build up 5 lbs oil pressure while trying to start. Let it set 3 hours and will start up and run for a couple min(not even reaching operating temp) then shuts back off. Lessleyjohnson in jackson, Georgia said: I have a 2005 dt466 truck came in for service and we changed oil and all filters truck ran great for a 100 miles and then starting losing power and then completely shut down. Tried to crank it back up and wont build up oil pressure so we had it towed back in to our fleet and we then replaced high pressure oil pump with a brand new irp valve, and also a new turbo, after replacing with a the old high pressure oil pump with new pump the truck cranked with a extremely hard start, it ran for minute and then shut it self back off will only build up 5 lbs oil pressure while trying to start. Let it set 3 hours and will start up and run for a couple min(not even reaching operating temp) then shuts back off ouch, throwing expensive money at it, turbo would of never made those issues,try cam sensor first but also can be the wire harness on the batteries for ecm, theres a servivce bulletin for it, it happened to mine, try the cheaper stuff first, internatiional very prone to these 2 issues, if not bad now it will go bad soon.
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